Erhard loretan 28 april 1959 28 april 2011 was a swiss mountain climber, often described as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times. Messner accomplished everests first solo ascent in five days roundtrip, without bottled oxygen, radios or sherpa assistance. In 1986, together with jean troillet, loretan made a revolutionary ascent of mount everest in only 43 hours, climbing by night and without the use of supplementary oxygen. Asia, china, everest, the hornbein couloir direct from tibet. Mount everest 8848 m, 1983 with jean troillet could not reach the summit because of bad weather makalu 8462 m, 1984. Two years later he scaled his first north face, and in subsequent years he was seen, often alone, on extremely difficult routes in the bernese oberland, the valais, the mont blanc massif and the dolomites. Dec 26, 2018 description on october 5, 1995, erhard loretan became the third person to climb all fourteen 8000meter peaks, and the second to climb them without supplemental oxygen. An influential climber, loretans story has never before been told in english. A climbers autobiography legends and lore erhard loretan, jean ammann, david roberts on. Loretan was the third person, after messner and kukuczka, to climb the fourteen 8000meter peaks, finishing in the fall of 1995 by climbing kanchenjunga. With his fellow swiss climber jean troillet, loretan then 27 conquered everest, the worlds highest mountain, in 1986, making a revolutionary singlepush ascent in a record 40 hours. Mount epperly 4359 m, 1995 antarctica with erhard loretan. The book explains the development of night naked climbing and how erhard used it to climb everest with jean troillet in 1986 and cho oyu and shishapangma with troillet and voytek kurtyka in 1990.
Loretan was one of the greatest alpinists of the modern era, the third person to have climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks and the second to do so without supplementary oxygen. Among his most famous climbs was his speedy 40hour push up mount everest with jean troillet in 1986. Kilian jornet completes two fast and light ascents of everest. Erhard loretan was born on april 28 1959 at bulle in the swiss canton of fribourg, and started climbing at the age of 11. Evacuating a nonambulatory climber would be incredibly difficult. Erhard loretan in the webtv studio of the trento filmfestival. Erhard loretan 28 april 1959 28 april 2011 was a swiss mountain climber. Loretan is often credited with bringing fastandlight style to the highest mountains new foreword by bestselling writer david roberts on october 5, 1995, erhard loretan became the third person to climb all fourteen 8000meter peaks, and the second to climb them without supplemental oxygen. Loretan is often credited with bringing fast and light style to the highest mountains new foreword by bestselling writer david roberts on october 5, 1995, erhard loretan became the third person to climb all fourteen 8000meter peaks, and the second to climb them without supplemental oxygen.
Aac publications new routes, cho oyu and shisha pangma. Shisha pangma, central summit 8008m, tibet himalaya, south face left of the yugoslav route, new route, alpine style and nonstop ascent, with erhard loretan and jean troillet swiss article. Erhard loretan obituary mountaineering the guardian. The obituary was featured in legacy on april 29, 2011. Night naked erhard loretana climbers autobiography on october 5, 1995, erhard loretan became the third person to climb all fourteen 8000metre peaks, and the second to climb them without supplemental oxygen. Together with erhard loretan, troillet holds the speed record for the ascent of everest by the north face, that is, 43 hours to the summit and back.
Loretan was the third person to have climbed all 14 eightthousanders second without oxygen, a feat he accomplished at the age of 36. Of swiss and canadian nationality, he obtained his mountain guide qualifications in 1969. On october 5, 1995, erhard loretan became the third person to climb all fourteen 8000meter peaks, and the second to climb them without supplemental oxygen. French alpinist erhard loretans fast, light attack on 8000meter. Kurtyka decided to turn around, while troillet and loretan continued on. Messner has written 24 books and runs a renowned climbing school in a. Mountaineer erhard loretan was born in switzerland in 1959 and he lived a life above the clouds. Both rise 2000 meters from their bases and 2500 meters from their base camps. A few years prior, in 1986, erhard loretan and jean troillet made their legendary ascent up the hornbein couloir and back down to their base camp in 43 hours. Erhard loretans dizzying alpine race has driven him from the freiburg prepals to the himalayas, from dentdebroc 1,829m to kangchenjunga 8,586m. In recent years, loretan had focused on guiding and climbing smaller peaks in.
Loretan and his client, a 38yearold swiss woman resident in geneva, had been climbing in the range since the previous weekend, and spent wednesday night at the relatively remote. I have been reading every non fiction book on everest and k2. Like messner, they snatched a clearweather window toward the end of the monsoon for a lightning dash up and down the mountain. Jean troillet born 10 march 1948 is a professional mountain climber. Erhard loretan mountaineering curriculum 1980 numerous first ascents in the andes 1982 first 8000er, nanga parbat 8125m via the diamir face. I discovered my passion for climbing at altitude by accepting the invitation of a friend to go to the west pillar of makalu in 1982. Erhard loretan obituary nightnaked climber and only the third man to scale all 14 peaks above 8,000m erhard loretan in 1998, below, and above, on the north face of laiguille verte in. In one such instance, we find kurtyka arguing with his partners jean troillet and erhard loretan over the avalanche danger on cho oyu. Apr 29, 2011 geneva ap famed swiss mountain guide erhard loretan, one of the few climbers to ever reach the summits of all 14 of the worlds peaks above 8,000 meters, has died in a climbing fall on his 52nd bi. A climbers autobiography legends and lore by erhard loretan, jean ammann isbn.
Fascinated by mountains since childhood, he obtained his mountain guide certification at the age of 21. Jan 31, 2014 erhard loretan 19592011 was a swiss mountain climber, often described as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times. Everyday low prices and free delivery on eligible orders. I became seriously involved in mountaineering in the 1980s when i began organizing expeditions to the himalayas. These young men were swinging on scales that were very finely balanced between risk and reward. Also in 1969, and at the age of 21, he set a speed record for an ascent of the matterhorn of four hours and ten minutes. Conference jean troillet motivation, philosophy and well. Such climbing was termed nightnaked by voytek kurtyka. World heritage encyclopedia, the aggregation of the largest online encyclopedias available, and the most definitive collection ever assembled. On october 5, 1995, loretan became the third man to reach the fourteen eighth miles of the planet. In 1997 he was the first man to descend from the roof of the world on a snowboard, although he did not ride down from the top.
Erhard loretan completed the 14 8000 meter summits in years 198295 at. Loretan was both a degree in art carpenter and mountain guide, and died in the crash of a us. Wojciech kurtyka, new routes, cho oyu and shisha pangma, aaj 1991 cho oyu 8201m, tibet himalaya, southwest face, new route, alpine. In 1986, together with jean troillet, loretan made a revolutionary ascent of mount everest in only 40 hours, climbing by night and without the use of. Jean troillet i have been a mountain guide since 1969. Conference jean troillet motivation, philosophy and. It was 1995, the second climber, the ascent of all 14 eightthousanders succeeded without additional oxygen, and the third overall. Erhard loretan born april 28, 1959 in bulle, 28 april, 2011 fieschertal was a swiss mountaineer. Go search your store deals store gift cards sell help. The virgin southwest face of cho oyu and the central couloir of the south face of shisha pangma were the objectives of swiss jean troillet, erhard loretan and me. Erhard loretan on the the first ascent of the swisspolish route on the nameless tower. Description on october 5, 1995, erhard loretan became the third person to climb all fourteen 8000meter peaks, and the second to climb them without supplemental oxygen.
On thursday 28 april swiss alpinist and mountain guide erhard loretan died in a climbing accident while ascending grunhorn in the bernse alps. With his fellow swiss climber jean troillet, loretan then 27 conquered everest, the worlds highest mountain, in 1986, making a. Erhard loretan april 28, 1959 april 28, 2011 world. Jan 30, 2018 lay persons tend to underestimate the effort required to conduct any kind of rescue at extremely high altitudes on steep technical terrain. April 2011 in fieschertal weer en swiezer bargstieger. Jean troillet was born on march 10, 1948 in orsieres, valais switzerland. Mcdonald artfully narrates how each climb led to kurtykas growing concept of alpinism as a liberating, creative practice, even in failure. Night naked by erhard loretan, david roberts waterstones. Erhard loretan was a swiss mountain climber, often described as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times. Loretan, erhard, ammann, jean, roma i casanovas, francesc. Was there a chance to continue rescue of tomasz mackiewicz.
Erhard loretan one of the greatest mountaineers of modern times, the swiss erhard loretan, was killed on the 28th april whilst guiding in the bernese oberland. In 1986, together with jean troillet, loretan made a revolutionary ascent of mount everest in only 43 hours, climbing by. Loretan was the third person, after messner and kukuczka, to climb the fourteen 8000meter peaks. During the 1990s, the italian hans kammerlander established the record for the ascent from an advanced base camp on the northern side, completing the trip in 16 hours and 45 minutes. He also became one of only a handful of individuals to climb everest via the hornbein couloir. He trained as a cabinetmaker 1979 and mountain guide 1981 and began his climbing career at the age of 28. And then descended from summit to camp 1 via the hornbein couloir in three and half hours.
Unlike messner, they did not even carry a tent and sleeping bags. Or so it seems until kurtyka finds even more pure expressions of interpreting the composition of the mountains in his night naked ascents, within just three weeks, of new routes on both cho oyu and shishapangma, with jean troillet and erhard loretan. Jean troillet born 10 march 1948 is a professional mountain climber of swiss and canadian nationality, he obtained his mountain guide qualifications in 1969. Everest, a feat that included a fivehour glissade back to the base of the mountain. Log in once logged in, you can add biography in the database. Erhard loretan 19592011 was a swiss mountain climber. New routes on cho oyu and shishapangma wojtek kurtyka the virgin southwest face of chooyu 8201 m and the distinctive, unclimbed central gully on the south face of shishapangma 8046 m rising directly up to its middle summit, were the objectives of the small, 3men swisspolish team consisting of jean troillet swiss, erhard loretan swiss, and wojtek kurtyka polish and formal leader. This swisscanadian has climbed the ten highest peaks in the world, including mount everest, k2, and kangchenjunga. Everest were made by reinhold messner in 1980, and erhard loretan and jean troillet in 1986.
Loretan was born in bulle in the canton of fribourg. Mar 01, 2008 a polish team completed the first winter ascent in 1980, and two swiss climbersjean troillet and erhard loretanbroke record times in 1986, climbing the north face in 41. Erhard loretan, swiss climber, who ascended nanga parbat in 1982, gasherbrum ii, gasherbrum i and broad peak in 1983 within days, manaslu and annapurna i. Get it today with same day delivery, order pickup or drive up.
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